Egmont – The Key to Tampa Bay

Located at the mouth of Tampa Bay, Egmont Key is now primarily a wildlife refuge. Accessible only by private boat, it has a unique natural and cultural history, including a lighthouse that’s stood since 1858. On any given day you’ll find boating, swimming and fishing activities going on around this small island. Often oblivious to the decades of history, its outward appearance deceives the average observer.  Take a moment to travel back to the beginning.

This modest island located at the entrance to Tampa Bay played a dynamic part in the area’s history. Named in honor of John Perceval, the second Earl of Egmont, it witnessed the passing of Spanish Conquistadors, English, and Spanish Privateers, the violent struggle between brothers in blue and grey and later ships of steam and iron. Today hundreds of steel hulled, oil driven, satellite guided merchant ships pass this small island on course to Tampa.

Throughout the early 1830′s, as shipping increased and Tampa developed into an active seaport, so did the number of shallow water groundings near Egmont. To remedy the situation citizens petitioned the Government to construct a lighthouse at the entrance of Tampa Bay. In March 1848 Congress authorized $7,050.00 to erect the only lighthouse between St. Marks and Key West. Living on the island with his family, the first light tender Sherrod Edwards operated the new beacon.

Shortly after completion, enormous waves with tidal surges exceeding 15 feet completely covered the island, as the great hurricane of 1848 struck Florida’s gulf coast. At the highest point on the island, Edwards placed his family in a small boat, tied it to cabbage palms and rode out the violent storm. By morning the exhausted Edwards returned to the lighthouse finding it severely damaged and their possessions gone or destroyed. As the powerful storm traveled up the coast the winds and seas subsided; Edwards rowed his family to shore and resigned his post as lighthouse tender.

In what is generally called today’s hurricane season subsequent storms followed wreaking havoc on the island and lighthouse. Once again, Congress appropriated monies to redesign and rebuild the lighthouse to withstand future storms. The new lighthouse was 120 feet tall with Fresnel lens and Argard lamp, the most modern of its time. As a tribute to the builders this structure still stands today.

This small island added a dreadful footnote to the Seminole Indian Wars. Egmont served as a holding area and point of departure for hundreds of Seminoles awaiting transportation to a reservation in Arkansas. One tragic event took place on Egmont Key in 1858 as the Billy Bowlegs or third and final Indian War came to a close in Florida. Bowlegs the last remaining Seminole Indian chief in South Florida with his remaining followers, surrendered in Fort Myers. The tribesmen were transported to Egmont Key for their final rendezvous before crossing the Gulf of Mexico to Arkansas. One proud warrior, Tiger Tail could no longer endure the humility of being taken from his native Florida. Preparing for departure he ground up a quantity of glass swallowing it with a glass of water. His suicide tragically ended the era of Florida Indians.

In 1861, the deadliest Civil War in U.S. history began. Confederate troops decided to occupy the island, but quickly realized they were unable to defend its strategic location decided to leave; to render the lighthouse useless, the Fresnel lens was taken during the evacuation.

Despite the inoperable light beacon, Union Forces captured the island in November 1861 establishing a Union gunboat base. These gunboats successfully blockaded the entrance to Tampa Bay and shelled buildings of military importance. At one point they even invaded and briefly occupied the city. Before the war ended with the surrender of General Robert E. Lee in 1865 thousands of run-away slaves, Union sympathizers, and Confederate prisoners were held captive on the island.

As the war subsided, new lighthouse keepers were hired to live on the island with their families. They were responsible for day to day operations involving general house keeping, lens cleaning, and wick trimming.

When the U.S. Lighthouse Service established a sea buoy depot and coal shed in 1872; the small history filled island finally seemed destined to some normality, but not for long.

In 1898, irresolvable differences over the liberation of Cuba loomed on the horizon between the United States and Spain. The Spanish – American War seemed inevitable and apprehension ran high for the citizens of Tampa. Concerned over a Spanish fleet invasion, they demanded the government guard the entrance. Accordingly, in 1906 and named in honor of Army Major Francis Dade, massacred by Seminole Indians 1835; the walls of Fort Dade rose to completion. The mighty fort stood ready to guard Tampa Bay for an invasion that never came. Fort Dade became a sprawling complex complete with a post office, Movie Theater, electric lights, telephone service, sewers, icehouse, hospital, and even an elementary school. Then nearing the 20th century, a fort that proudly served even during World War I and II was finally deactivated in 1923. Now the once proud fortress succumbs to years of abandonment and pounding surf. Much of the original fort and buildings located 250 yards inland are literally crumbling into the sea.

In 1939 lighthouse operations transferred to and are now maintained by the U.S. Coast Guard. In the 1940′s the lighthouse was modernized by adding two 200,000 candle power airport beacons visible to 28 miles. This modernization resulted in the tower being shortened to 85 feet when the original beacon was removed.

The Tampa Bay Pilots Association was founded in 1886, to help guide merchant ships into Tampa. Today, their presence on Egmont Key is a living statement to Tampa’s maritime history.

Egmont Key State Park and National Wildlife Refuge – was established in 1974 and protects a diverse community of animals and plants, many of which are either threatened or endangered. This island refuge was once the site of the former United States Army Fort Dade Military Reservation, and abundant reminders of this unique military past can be found scattered throughout the island today. Silent gun batteries testify to a time when mighty battleships reigned supreme on the world’s oceans. Today, the now silent batteries, and an occasional tourist traverse the old carriage roads. Anyone with interest in Tampa history or ghost towns should visit Egmont Key State Park that’s open 365 days from 8 AM until sundown.

Captain Woody Gore is an outdoor writer, photojournalist, and speaker. He also guides fishing charters in the Tampa, Clearwater, St. Petersburg, Tarpon Springs, Bradenton, and Sarasota areas. Fishing these areas for over fifty years he offers memorable fishing adventures. To contact Capt Woody please visit his website at WWW.CAPTAINWOODYGORE.COM or give him a call at 813-477-3814

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